What could be more fun for a transportation planner than a trip on the Rocky Mountaineer train from Banff to Vancouver? That’s how I lured my husband, John, into agreeing to go to Canada and discover Banff. He had visited Toronto and Montreal, but I’d never been able to make those trips. We were also excited about the idea of shorter flights than we’ve had on our last few summer vacations. Our week discovering Canada ranks up there as one of the best trips we’ve taken! I can’t wait to share it and hopefully inspire you to visit our neighbors to the north. Such a beautiful country and friendly people!
Discover the Changing Landscapes of Canada
Canada has diverse landscapes, which were very apparent as we traveled from Banff to Vancouver on the Rocky Mountaineer. Banff National Park is home to the impressive Canadian Rocky Mountains, lush waterfalls, and hiking trails galore. Kamloops surprised us with arid, desert-like areas, surrounded by mountains. As we made our way to Vancouver, we saw the Coast Mountains to the north and the Pacific Ocean to the west.
Discover Banff, Alberta (2 Days)
Getting to Banff
Our trip started with a flight into Calgary, Alberta. From there, we rented a car and drove about ninety minutes to the town of Banff. We were visiting in early June, which meant long daylight hours and stunning views as we drove down the Trans-Canada Highway. The animal-crossing corridors located throughout our drive were fascinating. There are 44 wildlife-crossing structures for animals to safely cross above or below the wide highway. It is just one example of the amazing work Parks Canada does to protect the environment and animals.
Lodging in Banff
Located on Banff Avenue, the main drag in town, is Moose Hotel & Suites. The Moose is a rustic collection of buildings with one- and two-bedroom hotel rooms or suites. We loved our suite’s sitting area with a gas fireplace to warm up in the evenings after our adventures. I wish we’d had more time to enjoy our second-floor balcony overlooking the courtyard during the day. The hotel’s massive log fireplace in the atrium, along with a convenient bar for an afternoon cocktail, made for a relaxing stay. I ran out of time to fit in some pampering at Meadow Spa & Pools. I was excited to check out their rooftop pools overlooking the Canadian Rockies. We’ll just have to go back!
Exploring the Canadian Rockies: Icefields Parkway
It was challenging narrowing down the list of activities to fit into our two days before we boarded the Rocky Mountaineer train. Since we had a rental car, we spent a full day driving the Icefields Parkway. This road runs through the heart of Banff and Jasper National Parks, connecting Lake Louise to Jasper. Our day started with breakfast at Good Earth Coffeehouse in Banff – if you like strong coffee, this is your place! Don’t pass on the muffins and cinnamon rolls – they were delicious! We weren’t sure what to expect on the drive, so we picked up sandwiches for lunch. Our plan was to eat dinner in Jasper before driving back to Banff. If time allows, you can choose between the Chalet or the Altitude Restaurant at the Columbia Icefield Glacier Discovery Centre. While there, we enjoyed a Starbucks hot chocolate to warm up after being out on the glacier.
Sites Along the Icefields Parkway
Leave yourself plenty of time to see the sights or even fit in some short hikes along the way. We were only able to hit some highlights to get to the icefields on time for our tour. I highly recommend Sunwapta Falls, and hope to return there to do a longer hike. Due to the recent rains, the waterfalls were very impressive! We also stopped at Big Bend and hiked part of Parker Ridge, a shorter hike along the parkway with beautiful views. If you’re there in early June, be prepared to hike through snow! There is so much to discover in Banff National Park!
Other stops to consider are:
- Bow Lake
- Peyto Lake (I hate we missed this one!)
- Athabasca Falls
- Saskatchewan River Crossing
- Weeping Wall
- Big Hill
- Click here for the full Icefields Parkway Driving Guide by Parks Canada
All the sites are well-marked, and most have parking. The best part for us midlifers is that Parks Canada has bathrooms at all the main stops! It was a relief to have clean bathrooms and even hand sanitizer all along the Icefields Parkway.
Columbia Icefields: Athabasca Glacier
We chose the Columbia Icefield Tour with Glacier Skywalk in Jasper National Park, but there are other tour options you can explore on their site, depending on your time. The ice explorer ride was fun and bumpy. Our driver was very well-versed in the glacier’s history and we learned quite a bit of glacier science knowledge. Be prepared that the part of the glacier you explore is very small. The Columbia Icefield is the largest icefield in the Canadian Rockies, and Athabasca Glacier is the part that is closest to the Icefield Centre. Due to climate change, the glacier is experiencing accelerated melting, leaving behind rocky moraines, which are rock and dirt left by the moving glacier. The views from the skywalk after the tour were incredible, although the quick snowstorm that popped up while we were up there cut our time short.
By the time we left the Icefields Parkway and finished the drive to Jasper, it was dinner time. As we were driving into Jasper, it was clear the area was still recovering from massive wildfires in 2024, but the town itself was untouched as far as we could tell. We stopped at a local restaurant, Jasper Brewing Company, for a quick dinner. John really enjoyed their local beer. The food was excellent, the service was fast, and everyone was very friendly. We still had a three-and-a-half-hour drive back on the Icefields Parkway to Banff, so we didn’t stay long. We were very grateful for both the long daylight hours and the convenient restrooms on the parkway.
Tips for Exploring the Icefields Parkway
- Make sure you get a printed National Park Pass before you head out to discover Banff and the Icefields Parkway. You will need this as you drive through both Banff and Jasper National Parks. We just missed the window for the Canada Strong Pass, which would have been free. Check whether it is in effect before going.
- Cell service is spotty to non-existent on the Icefields Parkway, unless you are near a tourist attraction or a town. Make sure to load your directions on your map before you enter the parkway.
- Download the paid version of AllTrails if you plan to hike along the Icefields Parkway. I was very thankful I antied up that morning and got the paid version, loading the Parker Ridge trail before we headed out. It worked great while hiking up the snowy mountain, and we weren’t worried about getting lost.
Discover Banff: Banff Gondola
I didn’t think we could top our first full day in Canada, but day two was equally fabulous! We started the day by riding the Banff Gondola, enjoying coffee with views from the top, and taking a short boardwalk hike. Plan to get your tickets in advance, as they can sell out.
Since we still had our rental car and an early gondola ride, we drove and paid to park on-site. Be aware that the parking lot isn’t very large, and street parking is limited. If you are going later in the day or during peak season, take advantage of the free Banff Gondola shuttle. We were short on time, but an option is to make lunch or dinner reservations in advance and enjoy the views while dining. Your ticket will include a specific return time down the mountain, based on your scheduled activities. If you want to adjust the duration of your time at the summit, check with the ticketing desk first. Some people even hike up from Banff and then get a one-way ticket on the gondola back to base – such a unique way to discover Banff!
Lunch with Views
Juniper Bistro is located in the Juniper Hotel, just outside of Banff. The bistro’s dining room has amazing views of the mountains! If the weather is good, enjoy the patio and fire pits. We even noticed some easy hiking trails nearby that looked tempting. We enjoyed our quiet lunch here before heading back to the hotel to prepare for our sunset tour on Lake Moraine & Lake Louise. (Since I’m not a morning person, we opted for the sunset tour – just be prepared to get back to Banff around 11:00 pm.) As we were leaving Banff, it started pouring, but we’ve learned in Canada that the weather changes quickly, and it cleared by the time we got to the lake.
Discover Banff National Park: Moraine Lake
Our Radventure tour guide, Georgia from Melbourne, Australia, was amazing! She picked us up at the meeting point, then we drove for about an hour to our first Discover Banff stop, Moraine Lake. Georgia kept telling us that although Lake Louise gets all the praise, she thought we would love Moraine Lake more. She was right! The best part was that we had the lake all to ourselves! I search out small-group tours, so there were about eight of us, and we maybe saw three other people at the lake. Georgia says she’s never seen it that empty; usually you can’t get close enough to even get a picture!
Discover Banff National Park: Lake Louise
We had about an hour to hike and explore the area before loading up for the fifteen-minute drive to Lake Louise. It is also impressive, with an easy walking trail on both sides of the lake. The Fairmont Château Lake Louise is an impressive backdrop to the lake, although I’ve heard it is very pricey! Again, luck was on our side with almost no one by the lake, allowing us to sit on the benches and eat the dinner we had brought while appreciating the beautiful sunset over the lake. If you booked directly with Radventures, you could add a sandwich for dinner. Since we had booked through Viator, we brought our own sandwiches and drinks. I know it was probably a fluke, and the weather may have chased off many tourists, but we couldn’t have asked for a more special, almost private experience on both lakes!
Tips to Discover Banff National Park
- Since we were short on time and there is so much to discover in Banff, we chose a tour that included transportation to the lakes and covered parking fees, as parking is very limited and pricey on your own. There are also shuttles you can book, which is a better option than driving yourself. The process was a little more involved than our time allowed, but definitely check out the information on Parks Canada’s website if you want to take advantage of the area’s variety of hikes.
- Weather changes quickly in Canada, so bring layers and rain gear. People tend to dress very casually since they are usually out exploring nature. I was very thankful I brought my gloves, hat, and wool socks. If I could have added anything, it would be my wool long underwear that I ski in, but I didn’t realize there would still be so much snow in early June.
- Be cautious of wildlife, avalanches, and the weather. Canada is remote and vast, so always be prepared. You can stay up to date with Parks Canada safety guidelines.
Next Up: All Aboard the Rocky Mountaineer Railroad!
In my opinion, two days were just enough to get a little taste of all Banff National Park has to offer. If you have more time, add another day or two to enjoy the town. I will definitely be back and plan to fit in some longer hikes next time. Our next adventure took us on the Rocky Mountaineer train. We traveled by rail from Banff to Kamloops and then to Vancouver, a two-day train ride across Canada. Check out my next post to read all about it. It’s definitely a midlife travel bucket list destination!
Looking for an adventure in warmer weather? Check out my three-day hiking guide in Denver, or my recap on our sibling trip to San Juan, Puerto Rico.
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